Sometimes it is difficult to sort out what in your memory is inviolably
yours, and what is someone else's. Time can blur the sharpness of
once sure experience and cast it into a less bright, even hazy light,
where other voices and views mix and mingle. It is within this kind
of piebald consciousness that I find my grandmother and the early
cafeteria at TCU.
This much is fact--that my maternal grandparents, Frank and Georgia
Harris, with their young teenaged daughter, Elizabeth, came to TCU
in June of 1921, to set up and manage the first cafeteria-style
food service. Up until that time, meals had been served family-style.
The Harrises were given campus quarters in Goode Hall dormitory
(now Clark Hall), and two years after their arrival, my grandfather
died there. A year after his death, the univeristy administration,
having tried several alternatives, turned the management of the
cafeteria over to the widow, who remained in that position until
her retirement in 1942.
TCU's main cafeteria and adjoining kitchen were, until 1955 when
the Brown-Lupton Student Center was built, centrally located in
the basement of the Administration Building (now Reed Hall), directly
below the old auditorium. Public access to the cafeteria was gained
by the same stairs that now descend within the north and south entrances
of the building. During the time that my grandmother was in charge,
a wide hallway connected the stairways, as the ones on the second,
third, and fourth floors do now. Those who were here in the late
forties and early fifties will remember this area as the student
lounge.
The back entrance to my grandmother's kitchen faced west across
the uncut land toward Stadium Drive and could be approached by both
pedestrian and vehicle, as Rogers Road extended into the campus
from the north, running behind Jarvis Hall, the Ad Building, and
Clark and Goode Halls. It was this route that I took on my visits
to the cafeteria--walking south from my home on Rogers, crossing
Cantey Street, skipping along behind Jarvis to the back of the Ad
Building, waving sometimes to Carl Tyler, Mr. Dees, or Mr. Doss,
or the black Johnny Greer, all of whom worked to keep the grounds
neat and clean. Johnny would always smile, lean on his hoe, and
call an "Afternoon, Miss Joanie."
I don't know what occasioned my visits to the cafeteria kitchen--probably
bound on an errand from my mother--but I usually came in through
the back porch door. The back porch was a large screened-in area
that was set up with a training table where the athletes took their
meals during the playing season. In inclement weather, canvas awnings
let down to keep out the wind and rain. It was here, I'm told, that
the legendary Sammy Baugh practiced his throw. I wasn't there, of
course, but L. D. "Little Dutch" Meyer vows it's so, that the boys
would always clamor for more milk than "Mom" Harris had set out,
and Sammy would go get the extra small bottles in their wire baskets
and "pass" them down the length of the table to his cohorts, while
the tolerant "Mom" shook her head and tried not to smile.
To most of the students my Grandma Georgie was "Mom," the diminutive,
red-haired provider of their daily nutritional needs. She loved
the students and bore their pleading for extra helpings and "seconds"
with good nature, but she could also easily handle the mischievous,
rowdy, or surly with clearly expressed thoughts on decorum and demeanor,
which left no doubt as to who was in charge.
Grandma Georgie's staff was made up of what we call "minority"
now, but at that time, at my age, in my family, there was no such
labelling, and I was taught to treat with equal respect the different
colors of adults who moved in and out of our lives. As far back
as my own memory goes, Victor Martinez was the Chef, although I
am told there was a Jim Montgomery before that. Vic had begun working
in the cafeteria as a dishwasher, so young, my mother says, that
a box was provided for him to stand on the reach the sink where
the piles of dishes awaited him in those unmechanized days of handwashing.
Vic, M. C. Duarte, Will G. Story, and Ethan formed the core of
the cooking staff. Vic, M. C., and Will G. did most of the main
meal preparation, and Ethan was the pastry cook. Even now, after
all these years, I can smell and taste and see Ethan's delicacies.
There has never been, nor will ever be, a chocolate eclair or cream
puff that can approach the ones he made.
I don't recall, and there is noone now to tell me, how I started
giving poetry recitations to the kitchen staff. I had been taking
"'spression lessons" from my aunt and had learned to recite several
poems "by heart." Someone, probably my grandmother, somehow coaxed
me out of my usual shyness to say a poem which began: "Guiseppe
de Barber, he greata for mash / He gotta de bigga de blacka mustache
/ Good clothesa, good styla, and planty good cash!"
After that time, whenever I visited, I was lifted up from the cement
floor by Vic or Ethan or Will G. onto the spotless counter and prevailed
upon to relate in my best Italian accent all of the good things
that Guiseppe de Barber "gotta." How they would laugh at the last
line when I rolled my eyes and pointed to myself saying, "But notta
Carlotta, gotta!", Ethan's great white teeth flashing out of his
dark face. We must have presented an amusing scene--the brown-skinned
men in their white uniforms with starched aprons and tall chef's
hats, listening to a red-headed, freckled-faced child of seven or
eight quoting verse from a drainboard perch in a college kitchen.
The public eating area of the cafeteria is less clear to me now
than the kitchen, although I know it was every bit as clean. The
steam table was set along the west wall adjoining the kitchen, and
the line of approach to it was along the south wall, where ground
level windows let in an abundance of natural light. A white-painted
iron railing defined the waiting and serving lines from the dining
area, and one proceeded from south to north, being served by Bessie,
or Irma, or one of the other steam table ladies, and ended at the
cash register which was attended usually by a student. Wooden tables
and chairs, uniform in design, were placed so that groups up to
eight could dine together and each had a white tablecloth.
A small anteroom, off the northeast corner of the main dining
room and separated from it by French doors, provided the faculty
with a more private atmosphere. I ate there sometimes with my parents
and listened to the friendly easy banter and laughter of the grownups.
Such gatherings, brought back in memory, always seem to include
the genial and much-loved "Prexy" Waits, his daughter and son-in-law
Mary Beth and Scotty (Gayle) Scott, Miss Sadie Beckham, Mabel Major,
Elizabeth Shelburne, and her tiny little mother, Mrs. Cephus Shelburne,
the gruff but affable L. A. "Bud" Dunagan, and the Lincolnesque
"Mr. Pete" Wright. I was welcomed, warmed, and informed by those
good people who gave so generously of their energies and talents
to enrich TCU, and whose names now adorn so many of its buildings.
Time alters; with equanimity it obscures, enhances, and all too
often, obliterates. Recorded memories can stanch the flow of impersonal
time, and whether sharply etched images or fuzzy-edged collages,
all are valid, all are mine.
Back to top
|